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Bar, Old Town

Text and photographs: Djordjije KalezicThe old town of Bar is one of those rare places which have the ability to transport you into the depths of time. On the rocky expanse between the slopes of Sutorman and Lisinje there is a primordial force which causes any traveler arriving on a September evening to feel completely at ease, as though he is ready to deal with any threat or storm arriving from the sea.Image  At the entrance, a cypress tree which has grown into the rock. A natural statue, a welcome sign, announcing the accepted code of behavior - “Erect posture compulsory!"ImageYou can read the history of Old Bar in other places. Or you can simply come and look, run your hand over the rock, pass through the archway of the gates, up the stepsImageImageto the Citadel, built and added to for a thousand yearsImageand the town aqueduct dating from Turkish times.ImageThere, on the highest point of the Citadel you can feel the ages merging into timelessness as you wait for the caravans which even today seem to come along the old road from Lake Skadar, through the ravines cut deep into the Rumija massif and the olive groves which grow down the terraces to the river, where even today you can find olive mills.ImageImageTown or mountain: who can say?ImageAlthough the effects of time, wars and earthquake can be seen at every stepImageImageImagesome building have been restored (the customs house, the Turkish baths, the Church of St. Veneranda, the clock tower, the Bishops palace and the town palace, the gunpowder store). ImageImagePlans for conservation (reconstruction), revitalization of the town, and converting it into a large museum and a centre of the cultural life of Montenegro and the work on these projects which had been begun in 1983, were shelved in 1990, and who knows how long it will be before they are resumed.
But anyone leaving Old Bar on a September evening, must wish to see it again full of light, music, the echo of footsteps and laughter, with the smell of cooking wafting through the windows and gates.
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